MorePowerSewing.pdf

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ORE
POWER
SEWI
G
Masters Techniques
for the 21st Century
Sandra Belzina Websler
author of
Fear ofSewing
and
Power Sewing
REVISED EDI1'ION
Practicality Press
New York
This book is the result of more than four years of experiments and discussions with
masters in the field of sewing. Many names are mentioned; many others preferred
anonymity. For all named or unnamed who made this book possible. I thank you.
I am also grateful for four children and a husband who acknowledge and support
my obsession to turn everything I learn in this field into the printed word.
Practicality Press
An
imprint of Multi Media Communicators. Inc.
575 Madison Ave.. Suite 1006
New York. NY 10022
Copyright© 1993 by Multi Media Communicators. Inc.
All rights reserved. This book. or parts thereof. may not be reproduced in any
form or by any means without written permission from the publisher.
For information address: Practicality Press
First printed 1990. last revised edition 1993.
Illustrations by Tina Cash-Walsh. Amy Maeda and Melanie Graysmith.
Photography by Barbara Thompson.
ISBN 1-880630-14-1
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 93-084530
Printed in the United States of America
Table of
Contents
Behind the Jacket Scene
When to Underline 6
Silk Jacket 7
Jacket Support Secrets 8
Lapel Shaping 9
Unlined Jacket 10
Padstitch 11
Chest Shield 12
Lapel Perfect 13
Shawl Collars 14
Grade/Press/Stab Stitch Lapels 16
Sleeve Head 17
Sculptured Sleeve Cap 18
Taming the Sleeve 19
Comfortable Sleeve Width in Jackets 20
Determining Correct Sleeve Length 21
Too Much Sleeve Ease 22
Rotating the Sleeve 23
Narrow Hip By Narrowing Sleeve 24
Sleeve Facing Contrast 25
Sleeve Fitting for the Larger Figure 26
Altering the Kimono Sleeve 27
Changing Set-In Sleeve to Dolman 28
InSide Jacket Finish 29
Shoulder Shaping
Well Shaped Shoulderpad Secrets 30
Hidden Shaping in Yoke 32
Interfacing Success
Problems with Fusibles 34
Interfacing Decisions 36
Interfacing Pant Hem 37
Neckline Support Secrets
Choose Correct Necklines 38
Wrap Blouse Success 40
Off-shoulder Necklines 41
Neckline Control 42
Scoop Neck Insurance 44
Get A Handle on the Halter 46
Neckline Recovery 47
Neckband Perfection 48
Pattern Refinements
Cause and Cure for Backriding Shoulder Seams 50
Vintage Garment Shoulders 51
Feminine Shoulder Curves 52
Better Bodice Fit for Drop Shoulders
&
Raglan 53
Reshaping the Seams 54
Keeping Your Options Open 55
Multisize and the European Cut 57
Mandatory Machine Knowledge 59
Stitch Length Understanding 60
Puckered Seams 61
Presserfeet 62
Topstitching Know-How 63
Flashy Seam Finishes 64
Taking
It
Allin 67
Tucks Simplified 68
Perfect Pleats 69
Ruffles and Gathers 70
Perfecting the Pocket
Framed Flap Pocket 72
Skirt Opening in Pocket 74
World-Class Welt Pocket 76
Tissue Fold Pocket 78
Closures 79
In-Seam Buttonholes
Hidden Buttonhole Placket 82
Flawless Machine Buttonholes 84
Buttonholes Near Bulky Seams 85
Determining Buttonhole Size 86
Button ChOices 87
Snaps as Button Replacements 89
Placket from India 91
Realistic Approach to Pant Fitting and
Construction 93
Choosing the
Right
Pant Style for You 94
Choosing Correct Pant Fabric 96
Well Fitting Pant Sloper 97
Taking the Stride 98
Adjusting the Crotch Length 99
Customizing the Crotch Curve 100
Halving the Body for Pant Fit 101
Pant Fitting for the Large Woman 103
Pant Altering and Construction Sequence 105
Seat Stretch Prevention 107
Crotch Reinforcements 108
Pant Front Stay 109
Pant Pattern Overlay 110
Stirrup Pants 112
$100 Pair of Pull-On Pants 113
Saddle Bags 115
Skirts Only
Slit Skirt with Mitered Corners 116
Streamline Straight Skirt 117
Wrap Skirt 118
Circle Skirt 119
Easy Tube Skirt
121
When to Line
122
Silver Lining
123
Lining Decisions
124
Lining Around the Kick Pleat
126
Slick Quick Jacket Lining
127
Ready-to-Wear Crotch Changes
Long in Crotch
128
Short in Crotch 129
Waistbands
Final Word on Waistbands
130
Designer Waistband Which Grows
132
Waistband for Pull-Ons
134
Elastic Mystery
135
Shirred Waistband
136
No Waistband at All
137
Sophisticated Fabrics
Fabric Friends 138
Coming to Terms
139
Beaded Fabrics 140
Gabardine Can Be Tamed
142
Mastery of Wool Crepe
144
Cashmere Opulence
145
Sand-washed Silk
146
Linen Luxury
147
Linen Know-How 148
Active Sports Fabrics
149
Custom Pleating
150
Pre-Pleated Fabrics
151
Silk Chiffon Control
152
Hemming Chiffon
154
Fake Fur Classics
155
The Velvet Touch
156
Metallics
157
Sequins
158
Pelted Fake Fur
160-161
Puckered Fabrics
162-163
Microfiber
164
Sueded Silks and Rayons
165
Quilted Fabrics
166
Knit Know-How
Quality Knits 168
Knit Technique
169
Ultra Stretch Fabrics 173
Tips with Ribs 175
Ribbing As A Facing Substitute 177
Ribbed V Necklines
178
Leather and Suede Skins-The Real Thing 179
The Leather Process
180
Fly Front Leather Pants 185
Pockets in Leather
187
Piped Leather Buttonholes 189
Fabulous Fakes in Leather and Suede 191
Synthetic Leather
192
Synthetic Suede 193
Pressing Tips for the Master 195
Embellishing Stitches
Hand-Picked Detailing 198
Saddle SUtch 199
The
Art
of Beading
199
Embellish with Beads
200
Beaded Stitches
202
Beading By Machine
204
Embellishment of the Cloth
Grosgrain Framed Lapels
206
Grosgrain Lapels
207
Trim as Embellishment
208
Double and Triple Piping 210
Fabric Painting
213
The Bridal Challenge 215
The Wedding Dress
216
Bridal Veils and Headpieces
222
Bridal Accessories
223
Luxury
Unessentials 225
Handrolled Scarf
226
Chiffon Scarf with Double Mitered Satin
Binding
227
Classy Clutch
230
Vest from Start to Finish
232
Know Thyself
Shoulder Emphasis
235
Pear Shaped Silhouette
236
Inverted Triangular Silhouette
237
Hourglass Silhouette 238
Rectangular Silhouette 239
Cylindrical Silhouette
240
Petite Style
242
The Finer Points 245
Knowing When to Stop
246
Texture and Color Create Pizzazz
247
Confessions of a Personal Shopper 248
Secrets of a Traveler
249
Inspiration
250
Tricks to Look Thinner
252
Belts for the Thick Waisted 253
What to Sew Next
Closet Revamp
254
Wardrobe Gaps
.255
Sewing Vacation
256
Project Burnout
258
Future of Sewing
Who is Sewing Today 262
Sewing Instruction: Where/How 263
Get Your Daughter Hooked on Sewing 265
First Aid for Stains 266
Metric Conversion Table 267
Sources 268
Index 269
BEHIND
THE
. JACKET SCENE
5

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