111 - Router Table.pdf

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ROUTER
TABLE
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
W
eekend
P
roject
r
outer
t
able
With your choice of bases, a rock-solid table, and fence-mounted
accessories, this project is as rewarding to build as it is to use.
A
router is one of the most versa-
tile tools in the shop. Mount it in
a router table, and you’ll find dozens
of new uses for this tool.
base.
The basic open-base router
table shown in the main photo above
is easily built from 2x4s. And you can
complete it in a weekend.
Another option is the enclosed
cabinet base shown in the inset
photo. This cabinet helps reduce
dust and noise from the router. It
also offers plenty of storage for
accessories and router bits.
table top.
Whichever base you build,
the table top and fence are the same.
The router is screwed to an insert
plate that drops into the table top. This
allows easy access for bit changes.
Fence.
The fence accepts a variety
of accessories, such as bit guards
and a dust hood. You can make
these yourself, or you can purchase
them from
Woodhaven.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
MATeRIAls
WOOD
*A
Leg Pieces (8)
*B
Rails (4)
*C
Stretchers (3)
D
Base (1)
E
Covers (2)
F
Side Edging (2)
G
Fr./Bk. Edging (2)
H
Insert Plate (1)
I
Base Top (1)
J
Base Bottom (1)
K
Sliding Faces (2)
L
Top Bars (2)
M
Arm Blank (1)
N
Spacers (2)
O
Splines (2)
1
1
/
2
x 3 - 36
1
1
/
2
x 3 - 18
1
1
/
2
x 3 - 20
1
/
2
3
/ ply - 21
1
/ x 28
1
/
4
2
2
1
/ hdbd. - 21
1
/ x 28
1
/
4
2
2
3
/ x 1
1
/ - 21
1
/
4
4
2
3
/ x 1
1
/ - 30
4
4
1
/ hdbd. - 7
3
/ x 11
3
/
4
4
4
1
1
/
16
x 1
3
/
4
- 36
3
/ x 1
3
/ - 36
4
4
3
/ x 1
3
/ - 18
4
4
3
/ x 2
1
/ - 36
4
2
3
/ x 1
3
/ - 8
4
4
1
1
/
4
x 1
3
/
4
- 2
7
/
8
1
/ hdbd. -
7
/ x 1
3
/
8
8
4
Construction Details
Overall Dimensions:
36" x 23" x 41
7
/
16
" (including fence)
L
TOP BAR
WASHER
%/16"-I.D.
THREADED
INSERT
I
BASE TOP
#/8"
PLASTIC KNOB
%/16"
x 2
!/4"
THREADED KNOB
K
SLIDING FACES
G
FRONT/BACK
INSERT
H
EDGING
PLATE
J
BASE BOTTOM
MITER
GAUGE SLOT
M
ARM
E
COVERS
D
BASE
O
SPLINE
N
SPACER
F
SIDE
EDGING
HARDWARE
*(12)
1
/
4
" x 3
1
/
4
" lag screws
*(12)
1
/
4
" washers
*(1)
3
/
4
" x 24" hardwood dowel
(8) #8 x
7
/
8
" Fh woodscrews
(2) #8 x 1
1
/
4
" Fh woodscrews
(2) #8 x 1
1
/
2
" Fh woodscrews
(2) #8 x 2
1
/
2
" Fh woodscrews
(2)
3
/
8
" x 6" carriage bolts
(2)
3
/
8
" washers
(4)
5
/
16
" washers
(2)
3
/
8
" plastic knobs or wing nuts
(4)
5
/
16
" inside-diameter threaded inserts
(4)
5
/
16
" x 2
1
/
4
" threaded knobs
(4) L-shaped mounting brackets
(2 pcs.) 23
1
/
2
" x 30
1
/
2
" plastic laminate
* Indicates items needed only for open base
LAMINATE
(TOP AND
BOTTOM)
MOUNTING
BRACKET
#/8"
x 6"
CARRIAGE
BOLT
!/4"
x 3
!/4"
LAG SCREW
A
LEG
PIECE
B
RAILS
CUTTING DIAGRAM
!/4"
HARDBOARD - 48 x 48
H
E
C
STRETCHER
#/4"
HARDWOOD
DOWEL
#/4"
PLY - 24 x 48
E
D
2x4 (1
!/2
x 3
!/2
) - 8 Ft. (Four Boards @ 5.3 Bd. Ft. Each)
A
2x4 (1
!/2
x 3
!/2
) - 6 Ft. (4 Bd. Ft.)
C
C
C
A
B
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 72 (1.8 Bd. Ft.)
F
#/4
x 5
!/2
- 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
G
L
J
1
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 48 (2.3 Bd. Ft.)
N
I
L
K
K
M
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Shop Note: If you prefer to build
the enclosed cabinet base, turn to
page 12.
Open Table Base
1
18"
NOTE:
RIP ALL 2x4
STOCK 3" WIDE
1!/2"
#/4"
3"
1
Square up the 2x4 stock by ripping
2
Using the trimmed 2x4s, cut eight
leg pieces (A) to a length of 36".
3!/2"
CUTTING DETAIL
it to a finished width of 3". To do this,
rip
1
/
4
" from each side; see Fig. 1.
LEG PIECES
A
21"
36"
3
Cut four rails (B) from the trimmed
2x4 stock to a finished length of 18".
CUT DADOES
TO FIT RAILS
3"
#/4"
4
To form mortises to hold the rails,
first cut a 3"-wide dado,
3
/
4
" deep at
the top of each leg piece (A); see Fig.
1. Then cut a second dado 3" wide and
3
/ " deep, 21" below the top dado.
4
5
Glue a rail (B) into the top dado
B
RAILS
FRONT VIEW
of a leg piece (A). Make sure the
end of the rail is flush with the edge
of the leg; see Fig. 1. Glue a second
rail into the lower dado. Then glue
a second leg piece to the first leg
piece to sandwich the rails. Repeat
with the other leg pieces and rails
to form the two end frames.
20!/2"
3"
STRETCHERS
C
2
!/4"
x 3
!/4"
LAG SCREW
#/4"
x 3"
HARDWOOD
DOWEL
DRILL
#/4"
HOLE, 1
!/8"
FROM
END
a.
DRILL
#/16"
PILOT HOLE
THROUGH DOWEL
DOWEL
6
Then, cut three stretchers (C)
from the trimmed 2x4 stock to a
finished length of 20
1
/
2
"; see Fig. 1.
(Shop Note: To provide access to
the router, there is no top stretcher
between the front legs.)
WASHER
RAIL
7
The lag screws that fasten the
B
END
FRAME
RAIL
end frames to the stretchers are
threaded into end grain. To give
these lag screws more hold, a dowel
is inserted into each stretcher close
to the end; see Fig. 2. So first, drill
two
3
/
4
"-dia. holes through the edge
of each stretcher. Center each hole
1
1
/
8
" from the end of the stretcher.
Then glue a
3
/
4
"-dia. dowel into the
hole. When the glue is dry, trim and
sand the dowel flush.
DRILL
SHANK HOLES
C
STRETCHER
DRILL
!/4"
SHANK
HOLE IN
RAIL
!/4"
x 3
!/4"
LAG
SCREW
9
Place a stretcher (C) against a rail.
Drill a
3
/
16
"-dia. pilot hole through
each shank hole into the stretcher and
through the dowel in the stretcher;
see Fig. 2. Repeat this process to drill
pilot holes into all the stretchers.
Tip
If you cut the dadoes on the table saw,
set the blade
3
⁄
4
" above the table. For
the top dadoes, set the rip fence 3"
from the outside of the blade. To cut
the dadoes in the middle of the leg
pieces, set the rip fence and make one
cut in each leg piece to define the top
of the dado. Next, reset the fence to cut
the bottom edge of each dado. Then
remove the waste between the cuts.
8
Drill
two
shank holes
through each rail (B) where a stretch-
er (C) will be attached; see Fig. 2.
1
/ "-dia.
4
10
Now
complete the base by
fastening the end frames to the
stretchers using
1
/
4
" x 3
1
/
4
" lag screws
and washers; see Fig. 2.
3
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
3
E
COVER
CUT HARDBOARD
SHEETS SLIGHTLY
LARGER THAN BASE
Table Top
11
Start building the table top by
cutting the table top base (D) from
3
/ " plywood. Cut it to a width of 21
1
/ "
4
2
1
/ "; see Fig. 3.
and a length of 28
2
E
12
Cut two covers (E) from
1
/
4
" hard-
28!/2"
21!/2"
board slightly larger than the table
top base (D); see Fig. 3. The cover
pieces should slightly overhang the
base piece on all sides. Use contact
cement to glue the covers to the top
of the base. (See the box below for
tips on using contact cement.)
D
BASE
#/4"
-THICK
PLYWOOD
NOTE:
APPLY EVEN
COAT OF CONTACT
CEMENT TO MATING
SURFACES
with the edges of the plywood base
(D); see the box on the next page.
13
Chuck a pattern bit into your
14
Rip edging strips (F, G) from
router. Turn the table top over and
trim the hardboard covers (E) flush
3
/ "-thick
4
hardwood to match the
thickness of the table top. Then cut
the edging to length; see Fig. 4. The
side edging (F) will be the same
length as the width of the table. The
front/back edging (G) will cover
the long edges of the table top plus
the side edging (F); see Fig. 4b.
USiNG CONTACT CEMENT
As its name implies, contact cement
bonds on contact. It works by bond-
ing to itself, so it has to be applied to
both surfaces that are being joined.
Contact cement is ideal for joining
two large, flat surfaces (like laminate
or veneer on a table top).
application.
Before beginning, make
sure you read and follow all safety
instructions on the can’s label.
Start by applying an even coat of
contact cement to both surfaces to
be joined (but keep the workpieces
apart). A disposable roller or brush
works well, and if it gets gummed up,
you can just throw it away. Use only one
or two strokes. If you continue to brush
over the same area, the contact cement
starts sticking to itself and balls up.
If the first coat soaks into the work-
pieces, a second coat may be needed.
Just make sure you let the first coat
dry completely before applying the
second coat. Otherwise the second
coat won’t go on smoothly.
JoininG tHe pieces.
The contact cement
has to be almost dry before joining the
two pieces. You can check it by simply
dabbing it with your finger. It should
look dull and feel slightly tacky, but
shouldn’t stick to your finger.
To allow you to position the top
workpiece, set some narrow strips
of scrap on top of the lower piece to
prevent the pieces from touching;
see photo. Then when the upper
piece is properly positioned, pull
out the strips starting in the middle
and working to one end. Press the
workpieces together as you go to
work out any air bubbles.
smootHinG.
Finally, for the best
bond, use a hard-rubber roller (or a
hammer and scrap block) to go over
the entire surface of the workpiece.
Start at the center and work toward
the edges to work out any remaining
air bubbles. The bond should fully
cure in about 24 hours.
4
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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